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A Sinister Threat to the Kalasha of Chitral

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Pakistan’s Dawn newspaper today carries a disturbing report of a Pakistan Taliban video telling the Kalash people – the 3500-strong pagan tribe who live in three remote valleys of the North West Frontier (and about whom I wrote here ) that they must convert to Islam or face death. 

The survival of the Kalash — whose paganism is the reason why the area is called Kafiristan or “land of infidels” — thus far is a kind of miracle.

Their cousins across the mountains in Afghanistan were all converted by force at the end of the nineteenth century – which is why Afghan Kafiristan was renamed Nuristan, the “land of light”.

In more recent years the Kalasha culture was threatened by the arrival of roads into their remote valleys, then by tourism, and after the tourists stopped coming after 9/11 by missionaries, moneylenders, timber smugglers and migrants from the Punjab and other parts of Pakistan. Maureen Lines an originally British, now Pakistani author who has long lived in the Kalash valleys, and the Hindu Kush Conservation Association, have played a key role in protecting them, with the help of successive Pakistani governments keen to show that minorities can live safely in the country. 

It is to be hoped that the Pakistani authorities have the will and ability to protect the Kalash from this new threat. 

Convert or die.

Convert or die.

Valete -- Those we lost in 2013

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Nelson Mandela, Margaret Thatcher, Seamas Heaney, Hugo Chavez, David Frost and James Gandolfini probably had the most obituaries this year.

Here’s my own goodbye list:

 

Richard Beeston – Foreign Editor of the London Times and the great foreign correspondent of his generation. Rick was only 50.

Roger Ebert – A great film critic, the first film reviewer to win a Pulitzer, and a very nice man. (my piece on him here)

Peter Kaplan – Great editor, lovely man. (obit)

Norman Geras – Professor, pioneer blogger and Eustonian. (tel obit)

 

Elmore Leonard – the Great.

Tom Clancy – the man who predicted the use of civilian airliners as a weapon

Vince Flynn – shocked by his early death.

James Herbert (his “The Rats” terrified me as a kid

Tom Sharpe (comic genius see Porterhouse Blue etc.)

Oscar Hijuelos (loved Mambo Kings….)

 

James Gandolfini

Patrice Chereau – director of La Reine Margot and Intimacy; Gen Montcalm in Last of the Mohicans

Tom “Billy Jack” Laughlin

Paul Walker – underrated actor

Dennis Farina – Chicago cop turned actor

Karen Black – cult actress

Michael Winner – director, amusing restaurant reviewer, philanthropist, bon viveur

Bryan Forbes – actor/writer/director

Mel Smith – Comedian, the heart of Not the Nine O’Clock News

Ken Norton – marine, boxer, actor

Lewis Collins – Bodie

 

Ray Manzarak – as he said, the piano in Riders of the Storm was ‘genius’

Lou Reed

 

Mikhail Kalashnikov – rifle inventor

Syd Field – screenwriting guru

Ray Dolby – Sound pioneer

Amar Bose – Sound pioneer

General Vo Nguyen Giap – North Vietnamese victor

Marcella Hazan – author of the famous Italian cookbook

Alan Whicker – TV journalism pioneer

Al Goldstein – New York in the 80s and 90s wouldn’t have been the same without him, Screw magazine and Channel 35

 

 

A Stumble by the MOD Squad

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It is probably a good thing that the UK government’s plans to privatize defence procurement (part of what is euphemistically called the “Defence Reform Bill”) have been dropped, at least for now. 

The idea had been to replace the Defence Equipment and Support Agency with a “government owned, contractor-operated” body.

There is no question that the UK Ministry of Defence is very, very bad at procurement. Almost every major contract it issues turns out to be both a financial and military disaster.  Invariably the ships, planes and weapons systems it orders are delivered late and over budget, with the taxpayer rather than the supplier paying the penalty.

All too often these products – whether they be destroyers, early warning aircraft, naval helicopters or rifles turn out to be inferior to as well as more expensive than off the peg equipment that could have been bought from the USA. 

And if that weren’t bad enough the MoD is apparently incapable of managing the purchase of basic supplies without wasting hundreds of millions of pounds. 

On the other hand, the last great MOD privatization was something of a disaster from the point of view of British national security and the armed forces, though the officials who arranged the deal made spectacular fortunes.

That was QinetiQ – a private company formed out of three quarters of the staff and facilities of the UK’s Defence Evaluation Research Agency (DERA). (The latter was an amalgamation of organizations like the Royal Armament Research and Development Establishment, the Royal Signals and Radar Establishment and the Defence Test and Evaluation Organization which over the decades had been responsible for developing some extraordinary, often secret, military and espionage technology.)  The government kept control of nuclear biological and chemical facilities but all the rest was sold off at a knock down price. To the surprise of the naive senior civil servants who approved the deal (described in a subsequent report as “an innocent at table of card sharps“) , the top managers  of the spun-off company became multimillionaires. As the chairman of the House of Commons Public Accounts Committee put it it: “The senior public servants sold the idea to the Mo of privatizing the business without explaining to benefit, a serious conflict of interest.”

Although the sleaziness of those public servants, in particular the chairman Sir John Chisholm and CEO Graham Love, was remarkable even by the low standards of the day, the real lesson of that story is the financial incompetence of the MoD’s top bosses and their political masters. 

(It’s also worth noting that, as Lewis Page has pointed out, some of Qinetiq’s immense profitability was thanks to secret know-how it had been supplied by the MOD’s US government partners. Suddenly stealth and telecommunications technology shared only to America’s closest ally was now for sale by Qinetiq to the highest bidder.)

As this piece in Standpoint magazine explained, the Ministry of Defence is unfit for purpose on many ways, partly because it attracts the least competent and enthusiastic civil servants in the entire system. 

But it is hard to believe that a quick and careless semi-privatization of the kind the government proposed would result in a better procurement process of the armed forces. 

 

 

The Moral Maze and Aid

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I was a “witness” on BBC Radio 4’s “The Moral Maze” debate show last night (13.11.13). The link is here. A good debate but it was remarkable that the issue of corruption and waste in emergency aid delivery did not even come up….

Photos from the Afghan Sandhurst at Qargha

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America cares for its veterans; we betray ours (The Sunday Times Nov.11, 2013)

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The lack of support for retired soldiers shames us and must change

Only fools, the desperate and the supremely dutiful may be drawn to join Britain’s armed forces in the near future. This is partly because the government’s cuts will render them too small and feeble to be used in anything but a symbolic defence of the British mainland. But it is mostly because, for all the carefully crafted rhetoric about the mutual obligations enshrined in the “military covenant”, no such thing yet exists.

This is a country in which private charities have to make up for the failure of the state to ensure that limbless servicemen and women have access to decent rehabilitation facilities, and in which families looking after catastrophically wounded, bedbound young fathers, husbands and sons are left to fend for themselves.

It is telling that both the present and previous governments have been so oblivious to the price paid by wounded service people and their families that they failed to budget for the 24-hour care that hundreds of severely injured soldiers and marines will need for the rest of their lives.

Soon civilian society will have to absorb waves of newly redundant veterans, many of whom will need help and training if they are to lead productive, prosperous and fulfilling lives. Their participation in war and their emergence into civilian life when the economy is still fragile makes them all too vulnerable to post-traumatic stress disorder.

It does not have to be this way. The next government could and should offer Britain’s warriors a new and better deal.

It could begin by copying the best of America’s GI bill. This gives war veterans — or their families if they are killed or severely disabled — an array of educational and other benefits that not only keeps them off the breadline but gives them a real chance to make a good life.

The GI bill dates to 1944, when the Servicemen’s Readjustment Act offered every US veteran who had been on active duty money for education, low-cost business loans and subsidised mortgages.

More than 8m servicemen took advantage of the GI bill and went into university or technical education. Their skills gave a huge boost to the US economy in the 1950s and 1960s.

American veterans also have access to a Department of Veterans Affairs. The VA, as it is known, has hospitals, clinics and benefits centres around the US. It was founded in 1930 but expanded to deal with the 15m American veterans of the Second World War. After the withdrawal from Vietnam, the US shifted from a conscripted military to smaller, all-volunteer armed forces. But there have been sufficient veterans from the conscription era and subsequent conflicts to ensure that the VA’s facilities have always been well used.

The American GI bill still provides both vocational and academic training and subsistence allowance for service people who are in full-time education. It also pays for counselling and employment assistance for veterans with disabilities.

Today the VA system has care homes and jobcentres and even ensures that old soldiers get a decent burial — a benefit that is all too often denied their British comrades.

Although American veterans rightly complain about the quality of some VA hospitals, and the often slow and inefficient bureaucracy that administers their benefits, what those institutions offer men and women who have served their country still puts Britain to shame. And no one in America, not even on the hard left, begrudges American veterans the billions that are spent on them.

There is no reason Britain could not provide equivalent or superior opportunities to those who come out of our proportionally much smaller armed forces. Yes, it would cost money to offer education benefits and business loans, but both of these are investments in Britain’s future and cost less than dealing with homelessness, addiction, suicide and other problems that disproportionately affect veterans. It would not cost anything for veterans to be given preference in the queue for public housing, or in hiring for jobs in the public sector.

Indeed, a hiring preference for veterans could transform many public sector institutions for the better. Imagine, for example, what it would mean for the British police if they recruited large numbers of hard-working, public-spirited, mentally and physically tough people who were used to putting the safety of others above their own.

Our failure to make use of the unique skills of servicemen and women, including their technical capabilities and their experience of work that requires responsibility, initiative and leadership at a young age, damages us as much as it does them. And when our highly trained veterans end up stacking shelves or on the streets, it represents both a moral failure and a waste of human capital.

The motto of America’s veterans system is a quote from Abraham Lincoln: ‘To care for him who shall have borne the battle, and for his widow and his orphan’. This is a hallmark of a decent society, one that respects sacrifice and repays its debts.

A British version of the GI bill would demonstrate better than any parade or poppy drive — valuable and inspiring though they are — that we genuinely respect and are grateful to those who have risked or lost limb and life in our name.

 http://www.thesundaytimes.co.uk/sto/comment/regulars/guestcolumn/article1338115.ece

"A Sandhurst in the Sand" (Full Version) Spectator Nov 2, 2013

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A strange hybrid beast is rising from the dust in the mountains West of Kabul. The foreigners in Kabul call it the Sandhurst in the Sand. Those who work at the new British-led military school that welcomed its first cadets last week prefer the more cumbersome “ANA-OA” short for Afghan National Army Officers Academy (though the Australians who guard the place call it “Duntroon in the Desert” after their own Sandhurst equivalent.)

Whichever name sticks, the “Afghan Sandhurst” at Qargha will be the only significant British contribution to Afghanistan’s security after the NATO mission finishes at the end of 2014, though if all goes well it might be the most lasting.

Some see this “Kabuli Camberley” as a way of making up for what they see as the costly mistakes of the last 12 years, beginning with the decision to take responsibility for Helmand, the Afghan province with the deepest historical hatred for Britain, closely followed by the deployment there of a too small military force, commanded by apparently overconfident generals.

And with boasts about British brilliance at counter-insurgency sounding hollow after a decade of failure, the new academy presents an opportunity to engage in one of the military tasks at which British forces have always been genuinely good at, and are still recognized by Britain’s allies as being so.

In any case the academy represents a remarkable, radical experiment in social engineering — and at the same time an unconscious throwback to the some of Britain’s more successful and enduring imperial enterprises.

 

At this point, the academy does not look like much. The actual buildings are behind schedule so temporary barracks and classrooms have had to be constructed out of tents and shipping containers on a scrubby, dusty plateau strewn with building sites and abandoned Soviet vehicles.

It’s an area that has been used for military training since even before the Soviet invasion; one British journalist even remembers al Qaeda operatives being trained here during the civil war.

The “Afghan Sandhurst” as Afghan officials are proud to call it, is on the site of a bigger project – an “Afghan National Defence University” that will eventually include a Sergeants’ Academy, a Staff College and a Counter-Insurgency School, assuming of course that President Obama and his successors continue to pay Afghanistan’s military bills after 2014.

[There is already a National Military Academy on the campus – a four year college built by the Americans and modeled on West Point. While the Afghan Sandhurst has been set up specifically to train junior officers to lead platoons and companies in infantry combat, the American-founded “NMA” focuses on training engineers, logisticians and artillerymen.]

The whole idea of an Afghan Sandhurst is the dreamchild not of the British government but Afghanistan’s formidable chief of General Staff, Gen. Sher Mohamed Karimi, who attended Sandhurst from 1966-8, and who is said to be in the habit of telling people that if he had an army led by his fellow cadets, the war against the Taliban would be over.

Karimi’s Anglophile memories and desires have borne fruit. There’s a particular kind of military Britishness apparent in the compact neatness of the rows of tents and containers that will serve as the physical structure of the academy until the buildings are completed.

It’s also there in the solid commitment to continue the mentoring mission until 2023, so that the Sandhurst-inspired ethos and systems really bed in. The Americans, on the other hand, have all but abandoned their recently opened Afghan West Point, with dubious results.

Most of all it is there in the general bearing of the 180 odd Britons on the faculty. (The 70 non-British foreign staff all come from countries whose militaries have strong connections to the UK like Australia, New Zealand, Norway and Denmark).

Both the Regimental Quartermaster, responsible for building and equipping the academy’s tented facilities, and the Regimental Sergeant Major, who keeps everything running, are straight out of central casting. Tall, fit, formidably crisp, with voices that carry over the entire campus, everything from their salutes to the pressed perfection of their uniforms proclaims discipline and demands emulation. And the Afghan NCOs whom they have been mentoring, some of whom have been sent to Sandhurst itself for training, do seem suitably impressed. Although these days Afghan army troops are generally more professional looking than they were a few years ago, those who are teaching at the academy look like they might be auditioning for sentry duty at Windsor Castle.

Of course the Afghan faculty members here. whether Tajik, Pashtun or Hazara, are hardly typical ANA soldiers. The Commandant, Brig. Sharif was trained by the Soviet army and later studied at the Indian Staff College. His deputy, Lt Col Hussein attended the UK’s Staff College at Shrivenham and his chief of staff Lt Col Mangal went to both Sandhurst and Staff College in the UK. Others have been trained in Germany or the United States. They exude an almost painful professionalism and eagerness.

 

If at times you could be forgiven for thinking yourself at an Indian Military Academy at Dehra Doon or Quetta in the mid 1940s, there are few of the comforts here that cushioned life for British officers in India, nor any of the opportunities for family and social life. Indeed, both military and civilian instructors are near prisoners of the academy. Unlike Afghan staff and even the cadets they are bound by safety and security rules so restrictive that trips to the monuments or restaurants of Kabul are essentially impossible.

There is also none of the condescension or racial arrogance you might have found in a Raj-era military academy. “Shohna ba Shohna” – or “shoulder to shoulder” has been the watchword of all the training and mentoring efforts in Afghanistan. Many of the British trainers have actually fought alongside Afghan troops and have respect for their physical courage. That doesn’t mean they are naïve about the size of the task that lies ahead. Arguably the big difference between this project and so many others that Britain and her allies have embarked on here is that it is informed by 12 years of intense and sometimes bitter experience.

You can see this in the way the British have set up the selection process for the academy. It is designed specifically to guard against the political interference, nepotism and corruption that infect so much of Afghan life. All the candidates are given a coloured, numbered bib when they come for three days of anonymous physical, mental and aptitude testing. At some point during the three days of assessment by a multi-ethnic three-man selection board the bib and number are switched again.

Of course the board members can tell the ethnicity of a candidate by his features or his accent, but there is no way of finding out who he is, as the only person in the entire establishment with access to the actual names of the candidates is a British lieutenant colonel. What this means is that no matter how hard a politician, general, tribal leader or warlord leans on the academy’s staff to favour a son or cousin or well-connected princeling, they could not help even if they wanted to.

 

No one here has more affection and respect for his Afghan colleagues and students than the British officer responsible for setting up the Sandhurst in the Sand. Brigadier Maurice Sheen, a former Colonel-Commandant of the Royal Logistics Corps, was brought out of retirement by the UK MOD specifically to do this job. As he cheerfully points out, “being an old bloke has its advantages here,” Afghan society being one that venerates age to an extraordinary degree.

The sort of commander who knows the names and backgrounds of even the lowliest kitchen worker on his staff, Sheen has an avuncular, schoolmasterly air, and was in fact once a public school housemaster. He also  has the unique qualification of having re-established Iraq’s military academy in Rustamiyah in 2005-6.

That original “Sandhurst in the Sand”  (founded by the British in 1927) was one of the relative successes of the Coalition mission in Iraq. Sheen himself was famous for singlehandedly defusing an incipient battle there between mutinous Shiite troops and the academy’s quick reaction force. He was so admired by the US general in charge of the allied training mission that he pleaded unsuccessfully with London to allow him to stay on after his term was over. That general, Martin Dempsey, is now America’s Chief of General Staff, a useful ally for any coalition commander to have when it comes to negotiating for resources with either ISAF or the Afghan MOD.

Sheen dislikes the sobriquet “Sandhurst in the Sand,” partly because it is second hand, but mostly because  because, (he says), they are not trying to reproduce Sandhurst but to create an Afghan hybrid designed for the needs of the Afghan army and reflecting Afghanistan’s own military traditions and style.

Some of this takes a bit of getting used to for the British trainers. For instance, although there won’t be nearly the amount of drill required of Sandhurst cadets, what there is will see the Afghans marching with their traditional Soviet-style goose step, and holding hands in order to keep in time.

Apparently the fitness requirements of the training comes as a particular shock to Afghan officer candidates, even those who come from the Afghan army. Despite the proliferation of bodybuilding gyms in Kabul, and popular admiration for the country’s increasingly successful sports teams, a concern for physical fitness is relatively new to the culture, and the notion that officers must be fitter than the men they lead is even more alien.

 

You do hear skepticism about the project from some British soldiers here who served in Helmand and who witnessed the Afghan Security Forces and government officials at their lazy, corrupt and abusive worst. They tell stories of senior officers humiliated by junior ones with higher tribal status, of commanders who rape more junior stories and of good leaders replaced by well-connected incompetents.

Sheen and his colleagues are quick to remind sceptics – and their Afghan colleagues – that meritocratic promotions are relatively recent developments in the Britain, that until the late 19th century you could buy a regimental command and that even more recently, top jobs tended to go to to the socially grand or the sons of senior officers. They also point out that many of the cadets will come from regions of Afghanistan, and from families very different from those that British troops encountered in Helmand.

 

Sheen seems particularly keen that the foreign trainers respect the Afghan tradition according to which a commander is the father of his men, and is therefore as likely to be approached by a private asking for more leave as by a senior staff officer with a question about logistics. There is a certain romantic appeal to that kind of paternal leadership but a lot of coalition officers think it’s a bad thing. After all, it’s all very well for a warlord’s band to operate like an extended family but in a modern army commanders need to be able to delegate decisions to more junior ones.

And for all the talk about Afghan solutions and going with the grain of the country, the British mentors here are determined to introduce here what must seem one of the most bizarre and unsettling aspects of Western military culture, namely the training of officer cadets by their social and educational inferiors.

At the real Sandhurst, and in countries like America and France it is simply taken for granted that officer cadets should be trained — and hence be shouted at –by sergeants and other non-commissioned officers. That is a hard sell here in Afghanistan, because in the Afghan military as in many third world and former Eastern block armies, NCO’s are given low status and little responsibility. But if officer cadets here get used to it, and start thinking of sergeants as experts worthy of respect, it could change the way the Afghan army fights. Of course, that in itself assumes that the new breed of officers that will come out of the Afghan Sandhurst, with their eccentric British ways, will be accepted and flourish in the 350,000 strong Afghan armed forces.

 

Another big question that hangs over the entire enterprise is the level of quality it would be right to expect of staff, officer candidates and their training. Here in Afghanistan you often hear ISAF troops use the phrase “Afghan good-enough” to refer to a standard of performance that is merely the best that can be hoped for.

Sheen and his colleagues are hoping to strike a balance between the low expectations implied by “Afghan good-enough” and the standards required of a first world officer corps. They stress that cadets here don’t have to be trained for the variety of missions that Sandhurst cadets are trained for. They just have to be ready to lead troops in combat after 42 weeks, having been transformed from men and women who once identified as members of tribal and family groups to believers in multi-ethnic Afghanistan. The curriculum therefore includes considerable time spent on core values and military history, the latter taught by Sandhurst’s own Prof. Duncan Anderson with a suitable emphasis on Afghan victories against the British, Russians, and classes in the former using the Koran to back up notions like an officer’s duty to serve as well as lead his men.

 

In some ways the academy may not be as big a gamble as it might look from London. Afghanistan is after all a very different society than it was when British troops first arrived in force a decade ago. There are now  2.5 million internet users, 76 television channels and 20 million people with mobile phones. The culture and economy have been enriched by the return of more than 5 million former exiles, and of course by the billions of dollars of foreign aid. Most important the academy will be recruiting its cadets from a bigger, younger much better-educated population than existed here even a few years ago.

 If it all works it will mean the creation of a genuinely meritocratic, genuinely national institution that produces leaders with integrity and self-discipline. That alone would be a revolutionary development in this part of the world.

 

Of course, success could bring problems of its own. There are after all several third-world countries in which the army is the only institution in which a young man without money or connections, and burdened by membership of an oppressed ethnic minority can rise to the top thanks to his talent. Prominent among them are Pakistan, Guatemala, Panama and Venezuela – all states in which generals from such backgrounds have at various points established military regimes, some of them very nasty indeed.

On the other hand, despite all that has been invested by the West in building a democratic and independent Afghanistan, it could be argued that there are worse futures for this country than domination by a relatively modern, efficient, meritocratic military led by graduates shaped by an institution whose motto is “serve to lead.”

 

One Good Thing We Are Leaving In Afghanistan (The Spectator Nov.2 2013)

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 (full length version to come)

 Kabul

Afghanistan

A strange new institution is rising from the dust in the mountains west of Kabul. The foreigners here call it the Sandhurst in the Sand. Those who work at the new British-led military school, which welcomed its first cadets last week, prefer the more cumbersome ‘ANA-OA’, short for Afghan National Army Officers Academy (though the Australians who guard the place call it ‘Duntroon in the Desert’ after their own Sandhurst equivalent).

Whichever name sticks, the ‘Afghan Sandhurst’ will be perhaps the only significant British contribution to Afghanistan’s security after the Nato mission finishes at the end of next year. Some see it as a way of making up for our costly mistakes of the last 12 years, beginning with the decision to take responsibility for Helmand, the Afghan province with the deepest historical hatred for Britain, closely followed by the deployment there of too small a military force, commanded by overconfident generals.

In any case, the academy represents a remarkable and radical experiment in social engineering. The whole idea of an Afghan Sandhurst is the dreamchild not of the British government but Afghanistan’s formidable chief of general staff, General Sher Mohamed Karimi, who attended Sandhurst from 1966 to 1968, and who is said to be in the habit of telling people that if he had an army led by his fellow cadets, the war against the Taleban would be over.

Karimi’s dreams have borne fruit. You can see an old-fashioned Britishness in the neatness of the tented temporary facilities, in the bearing of the instructors and in the commitment to continue the mentoring mission here until 2023. (The Americans, on the other hand, have all but abandoned their recently opened Afghan version of West Point.) Both the British regimental quartermaster and the regimental sergeant major are straight out of central casting: tall, crisp, fit and formidable, with voices that carry over the entire campus. It’s not surprising that the Afghan faculty emulate their style. Of course, the latter are hardly typical ANA soldiers. The commandant, Brigadier Sharif, was trained by the Soviets and later studied at the Indian Staff College. His deputy, Lt Col Hussein, attended the Staff College at Shrivenham, and his chief of staff, Lt Col Mangal, attended both Sandhurst and Staff College. Others have been trained in Germany or the United States. They exude an almost painful professionalism and eagerness.

Then there’s the British officer responsible for setting up the Sandhurst in the Sand: Brigadier Maurice Sheen, former colonel-commandant of the Royal Logistics Corps, who was brought out of retirement by the MoD specifically to do the job. The sort of commander who knows the names and backgrounds of even the lowliest kitchen worker, Sheen has an avuncular, schoolmasterly air, and he was in fact once a public school housemaster. He also has the unique qualification of having re-established Iraq’s military academy in 2005-06. That original ‘Sandhurst in the Sand’ was one of the relative successes of the coalition mission in Iraq. Sheen himself was famous for singlehandedly defusing an incipient battle there between mutinous Shiite troops and the academy’s quick reaction force. He was so admired by the US general in charge of the allied training mission that the general pleaded unsuccessfully with London to allow him to stay on after his term was over. That general, Martin Dempsey, is now America’s chief of general staff — a useful ally for any coalition commander when it comes to negotiating for resources with either ISAF or the Afghan defence ministry.

Sheen dislikes the sobriquet ‘Sandhurst in the Sand’, partly because it’s secondhand but mostly because (he says) they’re not trying to reproduce Sandhurst, but to create a hybrid designed for the needs of the Afghan army and reflecting the country’s own military traditions and style. Some of this takes a bit of getting used to for the British. For instance, the Afghans march with their traditional Soviet-style goose step, and hold hands in order to keep time.

On the other hand, the British insist on imposing a very alien aspect of western military culture: the training of officer cadets by their social and educational inferiors. At the real Sandhurst, it is taken for granted that officer cadets should be trained — and shouted at — by sergeants and other non-commissioned officers.

That is a hard sell here in Afghanistan. But if officer cadets get used to it, the thinking goes, and start seeing the sergeants as experts worthy of respect, it could just change the way the Afghan army fights.

Will it work? Will this new Sandhurst transform the Afghan army? I heard doubts about the project from some British soldiers here who served in Helmand and who witnessed the Afghan security forces and government officials at their lazy, corrupt and abusive worst. But Sheen and his colleagues are quick to remind sceptics, and their Afghan colleagues, that meritocratic promotions are relatively recent developments, even in Britain. Until the late 19th century you could buy a regimental command and, even more recently, top jobs tended to go to toffs, or to the sons of senior officers. They point out that many of the cadets will come from regions of Afghanistan and from family backgrounds which are very different from those encountered by British troops in Helmand.

Another big question is over what level of quality it would be right to expect of staff, officer candidates, and their training. ISAF troops use the phrase ‘Afghan good-enough’ to mean ‘the best that can be hoped for’.

Sheen and his colleagues are hoping to strike a balance between this and the standards required of a first world officer corps. Cadets here don’t have to be trained for the same variety of missions as a Sandhurst cadet — they just have to be ready to lead troops in combat after 42 weeks, and to believe in the idea of a multi-ethnic Afghanistan. To that end, the curriculum includes much instruction in core values and military history, with emphasis on Afghan victories against the British and Russians, as well as picking out sections from the Koran that emphasise an officer’s duty to serve as well as lead.

In some ways the academy may not be as big a gamble as it might seem from London. Afghanistan is, after all, a very different society from a decade ago. The culture and economy have been enriched by the return of more than five million former exiles (as well as by billions of dollars in aid), and the academy will be recruiting its cadets from a bigger, younger, much better-educated population.

If it all works, it will mean the creation of a genuinely meritocratic, genuinely national institution that produces leaders with integrity and self-discipline. And that would be a revolutionary development in this part of the world.

This article first appeared in the print edition of The Spectator magazine, dated 2 November 2013

http://www.spectator.co.uk/features/9069301/sandhurst-in-the-sand-may-prove-britains-best-legacy-to-afghanistan/

Hargeysa International Book Fair, Somaliland

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I had the good fortune to visit the Somaliland Republic in August and attend the Hargeysa International Book Fair there.

My photographs from the trip are available here on Facebook.

My article on it for Chatham’s House new magazine The World Today is available on that publication’s site  or here on mine. I also did a post on the Hargeysa book fair — a truly extraordinary event – for Baobab, the Economist’s Africa blog and it’s available here or here.

 The visit to this extraordinary country convinced me more than ever that Somaliland should be recognized by the international community as an independent state (it has enjoyed de facto independence for 23 years).

I also got to see first hand that remittances are in many ways a more benign source of outside income for a poor, under-developed country than official development aid. 

That said, if the agencies that are working in Somaliland combined their funds to build a new road from the Ethiopian border to Hargeis and then to the port at Berbera, it might do enormous good for the country’s economy and its remarkably entrepreneurial people. 

Postcard from ... Hargeysa, Somaliland (The World Today Oct 2013)

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No 1 African literary festival: Somaliland buzzing with expectation

No one would claim that the Hargeysa International Book Fair presents a threat to the Jaipur Literary Festival or its ilk. It will be a while before the capital of the Somaliland Republic – a country yet to be recognized by the world’s Foreign Offices despite 23 years of de facto independence – plays host to large numbers of hard-drinking London publishers and literary groupies eager to catch sight of their favourite authors. 

But there are few literary events where you will come across the kind of rapturous enthusiasm that was on display this August when hundreds of young Somalilanders cheered the national poet Hadraawi. And few foreign writers will have experienced the kind of gratitude that met the handful of authors who did make it here. 

The most remarkable thing about the Hargeysa book fair, however, is that it takes place at all. 

The Somaliland Republic is theoretically part of Somalia – a byword for failed statehood and Hobbesian violence. And even though Somaliland itself boasts a functioning state and a multiparty democracy, you wouldn’t expect it to host a literary festival. This is not one of those super-rich Gulf States, whose spendthrift rulers buy prestige by importing Western culturati. 

Somaliland is a place where there are few tarmac roads even in the capital. Electricity is supplied by diesel generators, almost all consumer goods have to be expensively imported from Ethiopia, and the mainstay of the economy is the breeding and sale of camels and goats, supplemented by remittances from a large diaspora. 

On the ground, however, Somaliland does not feel poor. The capital’s rapidly changing skyline and busy stores testify to growing prosperity. Its physical infrastructure, like the single, potholed highway between the capital and the main port at Berbera, may need investment, but its communications infrastructure is already impressive.Somaliland has two competing private providers of 3G cellular phone service whose towers provide better coverage than their British equivalents, and both of the country’s ramshackle airports offer free wi-fi. There are no banks as yet but much of the population use their mobile phones to make financial transactions 

That said, Hargeysa is a city in which donkeys imitate the role played by cows in India’s cities, calmly stopping traffic as they stroll through town. It is a low-slung, dusty, higgledy piggledy town spread unevenly over a long ridge, and facing two conical hills whose name in Somali translates as ‘the young girl’s breasts’. 

In the centre, there are a handful of shiny four-storey shopping malls and a dozen office buildings being built. Like the Land Cruisers that jam the few paved streets, they are a manifestation of the relative prosperity that has come to Somaliland in the past few years. 

The city comes alive after dusk when its streets are bright and busy. For a poor country there seems to be a remarkable amount of commercial activity, but then Somalis have been traders since the Land of Punt sold frankincense to the Pharaohs. 

Large numbers of Somalilander exiles have come back in recent years and their influence is apparent. The founders of the festival are themselves diaspora Somalilanders. Jama Musse Jama, a businessman based in Rome, and Ayan Mahamoud, from London, knew their country had a hunger for books but no longer any bookshops.

They also wanted to counter the growing influence of Islamist charities and ultra-conservative preachers that have come to Somaliland from Saudi Arabia and the Gulf.

Old Somaliland hands are struck by the recent increase of black abayas in the capital – urban Somalilander women traditionally cover their hair, but with brightly coulored scarves. Given the appetite shown at the festival bookstore for copies of Anne Frank, Jane Austen, Tolstoy and Kafka, along with books about modern Africa, the founders seem to have found their audience. 

http://www.chathamhouse.org/publications/twt/archive/view/194607